For anyone with a moderate knowledge of the ocean and its powers, this is something special.
I have done a little surfing in my time, but that only serves to enhance this epic read. Finnegan's vocabulary and prose is some of the best I have read in my life. It takes your careening through the world developing in the 1960s and onwards. On the surface, it is a memoir of youth finding their place in the world, but many sets of deeper themes run through. I need to find where I can go surfing again after reading this.
I plan on reading it again at some point, which is quite a telling basic endorsement.